News | February 4
It's hard to believe, but I've been in Morocco for 3 weeks now, and it's been quite the whirlwind! Rather than stay in a hotel, I've been living with a Moroccan woman named Layla and her daughter, Selma, and they are very hospitable and fun to talk with. Thankfully, both of them have some English, so we can have real conversation! They are helping me with my Moroccan Arabic (called Derijaa) and they are getting to practice their English on me, so it works out well. I've settled into my studio, gotten a tour of the city and some artisan workshops, figured out public transport, and found a nice hanut (a little convenience shop) where the shopkeeper is helpful and eager to teach me the Arabic words for things and how to count.
This trip is already forcing me to ask a lot of good questions about my creative process, which is great and was an important part of my wanting to come and do a residency like this one. The directors and artists who run Green Olive Arts are really wonderful, both in welcoming me and helping me navigate the culture here and as artistic mentors and resources. They have a lot of experience and are very passionate about what they do and about the people and city Tetouan. It has been a joy to learn from them, and I'm excited to continue doing so.
As part of my residency, I took lessons in Fezi, a type of traditional embroidery. This was a learning opportunity unique to being in Morocco, and has been a wonderful chance to get a taste of the broad spectrum of fine crafts that are practiced in this country. I enjoyed getting to know my Moroccan teacher, who studied Fezi for 7 years in a special school in order to get her diploma in it. Talk about expert! Fezi is very detailed, geometric, and beautiful. In order to make the front and back exactly the same (no hiding the knots!) you have to put the needle in and out in exactly the right place and order. It’s a wonderful puzzle. Here is a photo of the beginning of my sampler:
Pouring time into my Fezi lessons got me well into the creative grove, and I’m in the middle of sketching, fabric hunting, thinking, drawing, stitching, gluing, ripping, and sewing. The relationship between the crowds on people on the narrow streets, the city with all its white-washed buildings, and the rough-hewn mountains fascinates me. I’m exploring those elements of this place as I work and create. Making art about what I can hear, feel, and touch every moment is wonderful.
Those are some brief snippets of what I've been up to, and coming up I have a trip to Chefchouen, the Blue City of Morocco, so thoughts on that to come! I’ve included a few photos below so you can see as well as hear.
Last weekend, I got to hike up into the foothills of the Rif mountains that surround the city and it was so beautiful and refreshing, with a wonderful panoramic view of the city. We could even see to the Mediterranean!